Who is the most surprising designer of the spring summer collection 2010?
No real surprises, honestly. Some demonstrate knowledge on cutting and sewing, but the style belongs to a melancholic past.
And who is the most telented?
I hate to place one above another. ‘Better than’ is not in my way of thinking.
There was a lot of criticism about the Milan fashion week this time… Why? Do you agree with this point of view?
In Italy there is no sense of solidarity or common sense. I’m not going into what designers and organizers fight over. It’s rather repetitive (somewhat like the clothings that come out of the Italian productions).
Milan, Paris or New York?
Milan is commerce. Paris is Paris, light years separated from the other capitals. New York is playing around with the aura it has of being the most exiting place to be in, so it created a personal way of dressing. New Yorkers indeed yearn for France.
How do you see the intersection between street fashion and catwalk fashion?
‘Street’ talks about being different from acting out and dressing exactly like all others . ‘Catwalk’ reveals and therefore projects what the inner thought of women-seen-through-men’s-eyes is about.
In the past you were a model. What do you think has changed in the last 20 years for better or for worse?
Modelling today is opposed to the Sixties: the market has developed at an incredible rate, the girls are used and thrown out at a good pace, fashion is a product and the show must go on, regardless of its meaning.
What is the most negative aspect of the fashion world today? And the best one?
No negative or positive aspects: it constantly measures the temperature of a collective form of distorted unreality and tells us where affluent society stands.
What we must absolutely recover from the past?
The values of slowness. It allows people to assimilate an idea, a dream, lots of important lost things..
You currently teach at Milan Politecnico. Do you consider internet a resource or a hazard? Do you use it for your lessons?
Internet. It’s an illusion of power, knowledge and contact. It really only gives you headlines whithout depth. It has the privilege of turning all people passive. I can smell it a mile away when a student just owns some internet notions.
One example to follow and one to avoid..
Figure out what you could think without using someone else reflections. Avoid plucking your eyebrows.
Describe your typical day.
I’m sort of lost these days, so there is no typical
Your speciality in kitchen?
I’m not keen on cooking, but I can make a decent vegetable soup.
By Silvia Bergomi | images by Matteo Cherubino
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